Adventures of a wild tourist on the White Sea
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By Riku Jokinen
A nervous feeling comes on at the pier of the monastery island of Solovetski in the White Sea - an inlet of the Arctic Ocean extending south into Russian Karelia.
When we were leaving the mainland we were assured that the ship would embark on its return journey from Solovetski at five in the afternoon. Now the cabin boy says that the departure is at six the following morning.
"I don't know", chimes in the ship's captain.
We have arrived on the island along with two groups of Russian tourists in the small vessel, which is packed full. The difficult name of the harbour where we left is forgotten during the rough journey.
Was it Rabocheostrovsk, Rabocheodosk, Robotheokosk, Nobotklemosk?
When we get to Solovetski, the pier soon empties of all people. Groups of tourists on package tours are guided onto waiting buses, which head for the hotels on the island.
Our fate is of no concern to anyone. We have no guide, no rides, no reservations - none of the basic elements of Russian package tourism. We are "wild tourists", who have come on our own without the benefit of the advance reservations of a guided tour.
In Solovetski we quickly check out the monastery, and return to the harbour to see if any ships might be headed to the mainland.
At about five, people start gathering around the fairly large ship called the Vasili Kosyakov, and lo and behold, Rabocheostrovsk is indeed the destination.
The pecking order is clear-cut. First to get on the ship are the Russian tourist groups marching in line behind their guides. After them, it is the local people.
There is an intense struggle over the remaining places among the independent tourists. Ultimately two are left in the harbour.
The two-and-a-half-hour journey goes quite well. The White Sea, which had been a bit rough on the way to the island, is calm, and the sun is shining from a cloudless sky. Curious seals come to look at the ship, and a group of about five white whales appear near the boat.
To top it all, we go to the only restaurant in Rabocheostrovsk for a fish dinner.
Those on a package tour are shown to their tables, where each diner gets a plate of starters.
Salads, soups, fish, and desserts are brought to the groups of Russians. As a starter, the wild tourists have to make due with a single plate of pickles.
"Unfortunately, we are out of water", a waiter apologises.
There are sounds of chatter and the clinking of cutlery from the Russians' table - and gnashing of teeth and rumbling stomachs from those of the wild tourists.
An hour and a half later, after the package tourists have gone, the wild tourists are hastily brought cod omelets that have been whipped up hastily.
The ingredients seem to have been scraped together from the plates of the package tourists.
Helsingin Sanomat / First published in print 27.8.2005
More on this subject:
 Visit Lake Onega - while you still can
RIKU JOKINEN / Helsingin Sanomat
riku.jokinen@hs.fi
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