Busting culinary myths requires scientific testing

In the spring, 144 food-related myths were collected from Southwestern Finland

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By Eeva Palm
     
      Myths related to food and the preparation of food are like folk tales. They are found everywhere in Europe and even further afield.
      Last spring, 144 food myths were collected from the Southern Ostrobothnia region in the Southwest of Finland.
      In France, more than 10,000 similar myths have been written down, and even in Finland around 7,500 food-related myths could be found and listed, believes Professor Anu Hopia from the University of Turku.
      Hopia should know her stuff, as she is also a research director of food development with special focus on molecular gastronomy, and serves as a consultant on molecular gastronomy for Stimulus Consulting.
     
The collecting and busting of such myths by Hopia and the students of the Seinäjoki University of Applied Sciences will continue in the course of the autumn, as part of a programme arranged by the South Ostrobothnian University Network Epanet.
      Over the weekend, myths were busted with some vigour at the Kauhajoki Food Fair.
      “By looking into and testing old traditions, new knowledge can be generated”, Hopia says, and she classifies the culinary myths into five categories.
     
There are myths that sound reasonable and also prove to have a body of truth about them.
      There are also myths that sound nonsensical and are just that - stuff and nonsense.
      Then there are those food-related statements that sound plausible enough, but when tested prove to be humbug. And then again there are also claims that sound like they must be a joke, but turn out to be surprisingly accurate.
      And finally there are those tricky myths that depending on the circumstances can be either true or complete garbage.
      Hopia urges that we question everything.
     
”Egg whites and sugar do not turn into foam properly if beaten together in a dirty bowl” is an old saw passed down through the ages
      The statement proved to be correct, at least when the dirt in question was grease, in which case the resulting foam was weaker with larger air bubbles in it than if the mixture had been beaten up in a clean bowl.
      If some yolk slips into the egg white, the outcome is much the same, because of the fat in the yolk.
     
“New potatoes must be added to boiling water.”
      The theoretical explanation is that in unripened potatoes there is still some enzyme activity.
      One of the enzymes transforms the pectin in a potato into an insoluble form. This enzymatic activity reaches its peak at 60 degrees Celsius. At around 70°C, however, the enzyme loses its potency.
      Potatoes that have been added to cold water may have to be left to boil for a long time.
      With ripened and stored potatoes this particular enzyme’s levels have decreased, and therefore the boiling water’s initial temperature no longer plays a pivotal role.
     
Chefs and researchers are on opposing sides when it comes to a steak-frying myth that appears even in cookery books.
      “According to the myth, a steak has to be fried in a hot pan so that a film will form instantly on the seared surface of the steak, which will then prevent fluids from escaping from the meat”.
      “Humbug”, says Hopia.
      No film impermeable to fluids forms on the surface of a steak when it hits a hot skillet.
      Equally good frying results can be achieved even with a cooler pan.
     
“An ice cube in gravy helps to remove excess fat.” The myth has not been tested yet, but Hopia assumes it is based on the law of nature, according to which fat solidifies in cold. Hopia considers the myth worth testing.
      Some of the myths fall into the category of rhymes, where a convenient ending to the verse seems more important than scientific fact.
      "Kun syö lihaa, niin pojat vihaa, kun syö kalaa, pojat halaa" (roughly translated: "If one eats meat, boys retreat. If one eats fishes, boys give kisses") seems to be a classic example of the genre.
      When this myth gets tested, Anu Hopia says she insists on being in the fish-eaters’ camp.
     
One myth that definitely needs to be tested goes: “If one boils eggs for several hours they will shrink to the size of a pea.”
      The collecting of myths continues, and so does their testing.
      Hopia points out that even the researchers are often in love with their own beliefs, so proper empirical testing is in order.
     
     
Helsingin Sanomat / First published in print 7.9.2009


Links:
  Stimulus Consulting, Anu Hopia
  Foodreference.com: Debunking the Myths
  Molecular gastronomy (Wikipedia)

EEVA PALM / Helsingin Sanomat
eeva.palm@hs.fi