Helsinki's romantic spots are found on beaches, in parks, and in memories

The city is largely devoid of romantic architecture

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By Pipsa Lotta Lehtonen
     
      "The first romantic places in Helsinki that come to mind are beaches and parks, which is of course a cliché", says architect and researcher Panu Lehtovuori.
      Finland's capital city is not something essentially defined through 'romanticism'. Architect Jorma Mukala sees Helsinki as classic and rational. The streets do not offer much for lovers: "People in love do not stroll in the car park of the local CityMarket. They go into a park", says Mukala.
      On the other hand, Lehtovuori notes that first and foremost Helsinki has always been a display window of different nations - basically our former Swedish and Russian overlords - and only secondarily has it been the city of its residents.
     
All of Helsinki's architecture is of fairly recent vintage, because no trace at all remains of the city's first couple of centuries. The city dates back to the mid-16th century and has been situated in its present location since 1640, but a major fire in 1808 did enormous damage.
      Helsinki really only began to grow with Finnish Independence and the coming of industry.
      "Consequently, the city lacks all those historical layers which turn Mediterranean cities, for instance, into mysterious and interesting places", says researcher and sociologist Mervi Ilmonen.
      A new city plan was put into effect when Helsinki was elevated to the status of capital in 1812. That structure is still visible in the city centre.
     
On the other side of the Gulf of Finland, Mukala finds an example of an architecturally romantic city.
      "Tallinn's Old Town is a mixture of small and large, narrow lanes, towers, and market squares. The streets twist and turn. Both surprising and random elements exist there", Mukala marvels.
     
It is true that architecture has a certain effect on the atmosphere in Helsinki. But to be fair, its roots are in the Finnish culture, which has not exactly encouraged people to show their feelings in public - at least not outside sports arenas. Every Finn knows the limits of proper behaviour.
      "Kissing in public attracts attention, and even walking hand-in-hand is somewhat unusual", Ilmonen concludes.
      However, a lot has changed even in Helsinki in the course of the past few decades. "In the early 21st century, terraces emerged on streets, the beaches were reclaimed, and along with various events in the city, new ways of entertainment have been generated even in the city centre", Lehtovuori notes.
     
Moreover, where there are people, there is always also romance.
      "I'd like to think that any place could be romantic, if a person's own situation, the time, and the company all are right", says Lehtovuori.
      In his doctoral dissertation Experience and Conflict, Lehtovuori discusses our way to conceptualise the city and public urban space. "Memorable moments are bound to be part of a person's understanding and interpretation. Through them people are able to re-define all places", Lehtovuori notes.
      Jorma Mukala wishes to remind us that ways of life are becoming different, in the same way as people like various things. "To some, a piece of graffiti can be an expression of love".
     
Helsinki's necking spots are small havens around the city. A typical example is the Tähtitorninmäki observatory hill in the Kaivopuisto district, with a beautiful view over the sea that calls up cherished memories.
      Even some of the islands off Helsinki, including Suomenlinna and Seurasaari, are regarded as romantic places.
     
In Eastern Helsinki, a secluded beach without boom-boxes or beach volleyball can be found in Vuosaari's Uutela, and a number of pretty lace-work villas are located in Kallvik. Part of them are owned by the city, and they are available for rent.
      The districts of Kruununhaka and Eira with their beautiful stone villas are ideal for romantic strolls.
      However, some residents of Helsinki prefer Töölönlahti Bay, with its bohemian cafe on the Linnunlaulu hill, from where the view over the bay is breathtaking.
      Those who wish for more urban romanticism are recommended to go to the Senate Square.
      And if it rains, there's always the movies and the back row at Kinopalatsi...
     
Helsingin Sanomat / First published in print 14.8.2005

More on this subject:
 A selection of the best kissing spots in Helsinki

PIPSA LOTTA LEHTONEN / Helsingin Sanomat
lotta.lehtonen@sanoma.fi