Relaxed atmosphere of German beer halls finds following in Helsinki
By Kaisu Moilanen
Waitresses in Bavarian vests and skirts carry one-litre Steins of beer to the table. The background music is a combination of German rhythms and Finnish melancholy.
The most talked-about watering hole in Helsinki at the moment is Rymy-Eetu, which opened at Erottaja in January. It is known for its festive atmosphere. Every day is the First of May here, say the regular customers.
The atmosphere on Wednesday evening is one of anticipation. Most of the customers are in the restaurant for the first time. They include Saga Frondelius-Walczak and her friends. "We came to see if the atmosphere here is wild after work", Frondelius-Walczak smiles. Pekka Svedjeholm, has been here once before, and he is trying to get the others to get into the swing of things. "Last Saturday there was a trio on stage dressed in traditional German costumes.
Why has a Bavarian-style beer hall become so very popular all of a sudden?
"It actually fits the Finnish mentality for there to be a place where you can honestly show up and get pissed", Frondelius-Walczak ponders. "Getting drunk is not the end in itself, but if that is what ends up happening, then it's nice that there is a place where you can do it", says Tapio Koskimaa who has come all the way from Tampere.
The owners of Rymy-Eetu, Jorma Railonkoski and Tanja Palomäki believe that the different character of Rymy-Eetu is the reason for the popularity. "People yearn for a relaxed place in addition to the trendy places", Palomäki believes.
"I have seen our customers jump up in the air already at the front door. People clearly have a care-free feeling already when they show up."
Railonkoski does not agree that people simply want a place where they can get drunk without inhibitions.
However, he admits that people do get loaded at Rymy-Eetu, and that the floor is often sticky with beer at the weekend. "But there are no shards of glass here like there are at young people's discos."
The German theme is also the way that restaurateur Seppo Koskinen markets his new establishment Schönes Fräulein. However, they don't want to see any drunken table-dancing here. "Nothing like that, by any means. Rymy-Eetu has its own business idea, and I have my own", says Koskinen.
Schönes Fräulein, which was opened on Wednesday in the former premises of the Hullu Kukko restaurant and the Stockholm diskotek, offers a little bit of something for everyone in its three stories. The restaurant, with 1054 seats, includes a wine barl, a dance floor, three beer halls, and a Gasthaus for food.
Koskinen first wanted the place to be a primitive beer hall. "Now people want something more austere to offset all the bling-bling", he says. "People want a new kind of sense of community. In the same place, it is possible to have all kinds of people. It is fun both for young and old."
Beyond the menu and the name, Schönes Fräulein does not appear, at first glance, to be particularly German.
"People always want something different, but it must not be too different", Koskinen says. "We want to make money, and not focus on any marginal groups."
Helsingin Sanomat / First published in print 11.4.2008
KAISU MOILANEN / Helsingin Sanomat
kaisu.moilanen@hs.fi
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| 15.4.2008 - THIS WEEK |
 Relaxed atmosphere of German beer halls finds following in Helsinki |
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